Introduction: Some foods can have therapeutic value in the treatment of photoaging. Objective: To clinically evaluate the efficacy of a nutritional supplement in the improvement of photoaging signs and correlate with an in vitro study. Methods: A nutritional supplement was evaluated clinically and in vitro, with a culture of fibroblasts. Patients with clinical signs of photoaging (n = 48) were studied while using a nutritional supplement, with clinical and instrumental (cutometry) evaluations at 56, 84 and 112 days. Results: There was progressive and significant improvement (p < 0.05) in the elasticity, firmness, fine lines and general appearance of the skin.The fibroblast cultures indicated a significant rate of collagen synthesis when compared to the control culture after 48 hours of incubation. Discussion: The oral use of some vitamins and natural compounds has a therapeutic effect on the signs of photoaging.This study has demonstrated that a combination of linseed oil, lycopene, carotenoids, vitamin E, zinc and selenium possibly improve the signs of aging not only through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms, but also by increasing collagen production. Conclusions: Nutritional supplements are useful in the care of photoaged skin.

Keywords: FIBROBLASTS, SKIN AGING, ANTIOXIDANTS

Introduction: Cutaneous aging affects (or will affect) all people at some point in their life, and its treatment represents a clinical challenge.
Objective: To evaluate the cutaneous effects of an oral supplement based on marine protein, concentrated acerola and extracts of grape seed and tomato in women with cutaneous aging.
Methods: Forty-five volunteers used 2 daily tablets of the supplement for 360 consecutive days. Clinical evaluations (carried out by both the investigator physicians and by the volunteers), ultrasonographic and photographic examinations were carried out every 30 days.
Results: Thirty-three volunteers (73.3%) completed the study. Clinically significant improvement was verified by the investigator physicians and the volunteers after 30 days of using the oral supplement (p < 0.05). The results were maintained after 330 days (p ¿ 0.05). The ultrasonographic analysis demonstrated increases in the dermal density of the photoexposed (132.3%; p < 0.001) and photoprotected areas (51.9%; p ¿ 0.001). Through medical analysis, statistically significant improvements were found in the following criteria: wrinkles, fine lines, solar melanoses, other hyperchromias, erythema, hydration, radiance , sebum, smoothness and overall appearance of the skin. Through the volunteers'''''''' self-evaluation, improvements in the wrinkles'''''''' pattern, fine lines, solar melanoses, other hyperchromias, erythema, hydration, radiance, sebum, smoothness and overall appearance of the skin were reported.
Conclusion: The long-term use (360 days) of an oral supplement based on marine protein, concentrated acerola and extracts of grape seed and tomato was proven to be a good adjuvant systemic approach for treating cutaneous aging.

Keywords: SKIN AGING, DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS, VITAMIN C, GRAPE SEED EXTRACT

Introduction: UV light-induced photodamage is an acute precipitator of solar erythema, which is the phenomenon measured to assess the protection against the sun provided by a particular product. Objective: To investigate the ability of a dietary supplement containing antioxidants (carotenoids, trace elements/oligoelements, flaxseed oil, and vitamins E and C) to prevent photodamage, using as a parameter the minimum erythema dose level. Method: The minimum erythema dose level of 28 volunteers (Fitzpatrick skin types 2 and 3) was measured with a solar simulator, before and after 30 and 60 days of supplement use. Results: The daily use of the supplement was well tolerated. There was a significant increase in the minimum erythema dose level in the group evaluated (p = 0.017). Conclusion: The studied combination of antioxidants was demonstrated to increase the minimum erythema dose level with statistical significance, suggesting the presence of photoprotective activity.

Keywords: ULTRAVIOLET RAYS, ANTIOXIDANTS, CAROTENOIDS.

Introduction: Organic acids are widely used in cosmeceutic-based skincare due to their exfoliation and cell renewal related effects. A star anise derivative known as shikimic acid is an example. Objectives: To evaluate the antioxidant activity of shikimic acid and the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic preparations containing 3% of this active principle. Methods: The antioxidant activity was assessed through an in vitro method. Formulations of gel, gel cream, and a 3% solution of the acid were sequentially dispensed and preliminarily subjected to stability and sensory analysis. The clinical study was performed through non-invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Results: The shikimic acid showed antioxidant potential. All formulations were found to be stable and the addition of shikimic acid improved the sensory analysis of the gel and gel cream. In the clinical assessment, the gel and the solution showed significant alterations in microrelief and in the parameters linked to skin exfoliation. However, the gel cream formulation did not show such an effect, suggesting the importance of the vehicle for the effectiveness of the cosmeceutics. Conclusions: Shikimic acid can be considered an active principle with good potential for application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at exfoliation and improvement of the skin's microrelief.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Solar radiation can produce erythema and pigmentation in the skin, interfering with pigmentary dermatoses such as melasma. Photoprotection is essential in the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation. The use of Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in reducing the damage resulting from solar radiation, through antioxidant and immunomodulatory mechanisms. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of Polypodium leucotomos extract in reducing the erythema and pigmentation following exposure to solar radiation. Methods: Twenty volunteers were exposed to UVB and UVA radiation emitted by a solar simulator. The reading of the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses were performed after two and 24 hours of exposure, respectively. After seven, 14 and 28 days use of Polypodium leucotomos extract (1,000 mg daily), the minimum pigmentary erythema doses were re-assessed. Results: There was an increase in mean values for the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses in all visits, with a statistical significance of (p <0.05) after 28 days for the minimum pigmentary dose and after 14 and 28 days for the minimum erythema dose. Conclusions: The continued use of a compound containing Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in increasing individual resistance to pigmentation and erythema resulting from UV radiation, meaning it can contribute to the treatment of skin pigmentation disorders such as melasma.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: The skin may present dysfunctions that result in histological alterations and elementary lesions, many of them caused by immunologic mechanisms and/or alterations in the epidermal barrier. Objective: The present study was aimed at verifying in vitro whether some cosmetic products marketed in Brazil in the form of liquid soaps, have anti-inflammatory and protective efficacy in the skin barrier. Methods: An in vitro study was carried out with four commercial soaps, which were evaluated in a cell culture of human keratinocytes for the determination of their anti-inflammatory and epidermal barrier restorative effects, as well as their capacity to reduce cutaneous hypersensitivity. Concentrations of keratin 10 and 14, loricrin, IL-12, IFN-γ and TRP V-1 were measured in the cell culture supernatants of human keratinocyte through the sandwich ELISA assay. Results: The four test substances led to significant reductions in the synthesis of IFN-γ and IL-12. Only the test substance C triggered a significant increase in the synthesis of keratin 10. All test substances showed significant reductions in the synthesis of keratin 14 and TRPV-1, and a significant increase in the synthesis of loricrin. Conclusions: Some cosmetic products in the form of soap can have in vitro results regarding their anti-inflammatory, epidermal barrier restoration and skin hypersensitivity reduction effects.

Keywords: ANTI-INFLAMMATORY AGENTS/ADVERSE EFFECTS; DERMATITIS, ATOPIC; SOAPS

Introduction: Modern life in large urban centers exposes its residents to new factors related to extrinsic aging, such as pollution, poor diet and emotional stress. Treatments proposed for this cause of aging include the use of cosmeceutical products with antioxidant action.
Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing antioxidant substances in the treatment of skin affected by the effects of urban life.
Methods: Prospective clinical study evaluating 33 volunteers residing in urban centers. Clinical and instrumental measurements were carried out through the use of specific questionnaires and images captured using a VISIA device at baseline and twenty-eight days after using the product twice a day, in combination with sunscreen.
Results: The comparison of the data obtained from questionnaires applied in the initial and final visits showed a statistically significant improvement in most of the analyzed variables. There was a reduction of 15.78% in the extrinsic aging score. The image analysis demonstrated a statistically significant improvement (p <0.05) for the variables color uniformity and reduction of pores.
Conclusions: The use of the combination of active antioxidant substances led to an improvement in clinical and instrumental parameters of extrinsic aging caused by the phenomena linked to urban life ("urban damage"), arising as an alternative for this new indication.

Keywords: COSMETICS; ANTIOXIDANTS; ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION

Introduction: The use of nutraceutical products in order to attenuate signs of skin aging has been proposed in the literature. The stimulus to the synthesis of substances that support the dermis is one of the mechanisms linked to this effect.
Objective: To evaluate the effectiveness of a nutraceutical compound containing lutein, lycopene, vitamin C and manganese for the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Methods: An in vitro study was carried out based on the culture of human fibroblasts treated with the investigated product in different non-cytotoxic concentrations. The quantification of the elastin and collagen was performed with the assistance of spectrophotometric measurements. Hyaluronic acid was measure using a immunoenzymatic method.
Results: Cell cultures treated with the different concentrations of the product showed a significantly higher amount of synthesized collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid as compared to the untreated culture (p <0.05).
Conclusions: The use of the nutraceutical compound containing lycopene, vitamin C, lutein and manganese has shown in vitro efficacy for stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, components that are crucial for providing the dermis' supporting structure, being responsible for the skin's firmness and elasticity.

Keywords: DERMATOLOGY; DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS; SKIN AGING

Introduction: The use of nutraceutical products in the treatment of chronic telogen effluvium of non-specific cause – associated or not with signs and symptoms of nail plate frailty – has been proposed in the literature. Supplementation of nutrients and trace elements that are crucial to follicle’s metabolism seems to be linked to this effect.
Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of a nutraceutical containing vitamins A, C, E and B complex, folic acid, iron, niacin, biotin, zinc and calcium pantetonate, among others, in the treatment of telogen effluvium associated with the brittle nails syndrome.
Methods: A clinical, prospective, open and monocentric study was carried out with the evaluation of 62 volunteers. Clinical evaluation measurements – based on digital phototrichogram and imaging – were performed at the baseline, and at 45 and 90 days after the use of the studied product.
Results: At the end of the study, a statistically significant (p <0.05) reduction of 31.56% in the number of telogen strands could be observed, coupled with a significant improvement in clinical parameters related to hair and nails. The instrumental evaluation based on image analysis showed a 36.63% reduction in nail desquamation, which, although not statistically significant, has shown benefits in the absolute outcome.
Conclusions: The use of nutraceuticals was proven effective in the treatment of telogen effluvium associated with the brittle nails syndrome.

Keywords: Alopecia; Dietary supplements; Nails

INTRODUCTION: The term inflammaging refers to the increase of the inflammatory response due to aging, resulting in a low level chronic pro-inflammatory state. High levels of proinflammatory cytokines such as interleukin-1, interleukin-6, and tumor necrosis factor occur. Thus, the use of active principles that modulate the inflammatory response assists in the reduction of cellular oxidative stress, also reducing or avoiding irreversible cellular and non-clinically detectable molecular damage.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the action of a compound containing collagen peptides, Delphinol^®, vitamin C and hibiscus on the modulation of the cutaneous inflammatory response.
SUPORTE FINANCEIRO: Laboratório Farmoquímica, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, Brasil. Conflito de Interesses: Os autores afirmam não possuir interesses pessoais, comerciais, políticos ou financeiros neste manuscrito.
MATERIALS AND METHODS: The release of inflammatory cytokines after treatment with the product was evaluated in keratinocytes exposed to an inflammatory response-inducing lipopolysaccharide.
RESULTS: When keratinocytes were exposed to the studied compound, it was possible to observe an increase in the release of interleukin 6 and a reduction tendency in the levels of interleukin 1-alpha and interleukin-8. In addition, the release of basal tumor necrosis factor-alpha was reduced by 67.5% (P = 0.008).
CONCLUSIONS: The compound studied has a potential effect on inflammaging — and consequently on aging — by modulating the inflammatory cytokines interleukin-1 alpha, interleukin-6, interleukin-8 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha.

Keywords: Aging; Anti-Inflammatory agents; Antioxidants; Ascorbic acid; Collagen; Dietary Suplements; Hibiscus; Inflammation mediators; Skin; Skin aging

Skin quality and function drastically reduces with age due to chronological aging, photoaging, environmental factors and hormonal deficiencies. Decreased menopausal estrogen levels play a role in cutaneous atrophy, collagen and water content, loss of elasticity, skin wrinkling and deficiency of wound healing. Much research has been done to elucidate the beneficial effects of topical estrogen, which would have a more localized action on the skin without systemic side effects. The objective of this study was to review the relevant literature, demonstrating that this may be a safe and effective alternative for the treatment of women's skin in perimenopause.

Keywords: Estrogens; Phytoestrogens; Skin aging; Collagen; Antioxidants

In the aging process, the intracellular routes that regulate collagen homeostasis are influenced by the exposome, resulting in its degradation and decreased synthesis, leading to sagging skin. Current evidence indicates that oral collagen supplementation may promote wrinkles reduction in the eye area, wound healing, skin elasticity and hydration improvement, enhancement of cellulite, some dermatitis, and nails fragility. Large-scale and methodologically more robust studies are still needed to consider the use of oral collagen as an effective adjuvant treatment to different dermatological conditions.

Keywords: Collagen; Skin; Dietary supplements

INTRODUCTION: The use of botanical extracts in dermatological treatments has received special attention in worldwide literature, especially for its antioxidant action. Different products containing Polypodium leucotomos and Pinus pinasters extracts are commercially available in industrialized presentations or compounding. However, in the second case, there is no standardization in the extraction process and there is a lack of data regarding the quantitative and qualitative content in the referred formulations that demonstrate its effectiveness and safety.
PURPOSES: to assess the different concentrations of actives in standardized and patented botanical extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), respectively, comparing them to products offered by compounding pharmacies.
METHODOLOGY: The products were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography, and pharmacologically active markers were identified in peaks by retention time.
RESULTS: the concentrations of identified actives varied in the different products analyzed, being undetectable in many of them. Only industrialized products with standardized and patented extracts showed all the expected markers.
CONCLUSION: consistency was observed in specific products containing the patented extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), demonstrating the importance of standardization in extraction processes and studies on the efficacy and safety profiles.

Keywords: Antioxidants; Plant extracts; Flavonoids