Background: It has been proposed that thermal water can be used as an anti-inflammatory and mild hydrating agent in the preparation of skincare formulations. However, due to the complex process and strict quality control associated with its extraction from the ground, an oligoelements complex that mimics the effects of thermal water on skin is being used instead. Objective:To evaluate the stability and effects of thermal water and its oligoelements in the formulation of cosmeceuticals, as well as their immediate effects on the skin. Methods: An aqueous gel, a gel cream and an emulsion were prepared with and without the addition of oligoelements and submitted to physical stability analysis.The more stable preparations were tested on study subjects’ forearms. The objective evaluation of the effects on the skin’s texture and hydration was conducted according to biophysical and image analysis techniques before, immediately after and 2 hours after application. Questionnaires assessed participants’ subjective perceptions of the various formulations.The possible anti-inflammatory effects were not evaluated. Results: The effects of the more stable gel formulations were assessed on 15 study subjects.The gels increased the content of the aqueous corneum stratum, while the waters only produced an improvement of the skin’s texture. Conclusion: The results obtained from the subjective and objective analyses coincided and suggested the usefulness of the oligoelements complex in cosmeceutical products for moisturizing the skin.

Keywords: TRACE ELEMENTS, COSMETICS, WETTING AGENTS

Introduction:The French cosmetics industry sells spring mineral waters that are advertised as having biological benefits.
Objective: This study analyzes, in vitro and in vivo, a Brazilian mineral water''''''''s oligomin- erals composition, as well as its physical and chemical characteristics and biological effects.
Methods: Tests to evaluate physical chemical properties, cytotoxicity (viable cells) and irritability (het-cam test) were conducted. In vitro studies were performed to evaluate its capacity to induce the genic expression and immunohistochemical detection of filaggrin and aquaporin 3, nf-kb activity and fibroblast proliferation compared to Milli Q water.
Results: This water was found to be non-cytotoxic and non-irritating. In addition, it pre- sented a high content of strontium (0.61 mg/ml). The expression of filaggrin and its immunohistochemical tests were relevant. The aquaporin 3 increased 1.8 times and nf-kb decreased its activity by 47%. It was also capable of stimulating fibroblast proliferation.
Conclusion: The initial evaluation of the mineral water from Serra do Japi (SP, Brazil) indicates that it has the potential to be an adjuvant treatment in dermatology, since the results suggest it moisturizes the skin barrier, stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts, and repairs and inhibits inflammatory reactions. Clinical studies should be done in order to reassure the in vitro results achieved on the present study.

Keywords: MINERAL WATERS, BRAZIL, COSMETICS

Introduction: The aging process of areas of the body that are frequently exposed to the sun has a clinical pattern different from that of facial photoaging. According to a number of published studies, the combination of retinaldehyde, glycolic acid, and nicotinamide presents promising results. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a new dermocosmetic formulation in the treatment of body photoaging. Methods: Clinical, prospective, open, and monocentric study that evaluated 60 volunteers (phototypes I to III) with signs of photoaging in the neck region. Clinical and instrumental measurements (cutometry, corneometry, evaporimetry, and profilometry) were taken in the initial visits and 30 and 60 days after using the study product, which was applied at night, combined with the daytime application of sunscreen. Results: After using the test product, the categories of clinical parameters (wrinkles, smoothness, hydration, and sagging) and biophysical hydration (measured using corneometry) presented statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in the intermediate and final visits. Despite showing improvement, the biophysical measurements of skin viscoelasticity and roughness were not statistically significant. Conclusion: This combination was effective in the clinical improvement of body photoaging, and is an effective and safe alternative for treating this condition.

Keywords: SKIN AGING, COSMETICS, THERAPEUTICS

The French cosmetics industry has been marketing thermal mineral waters that have certain biological effects. Previous studies have demonstrated that oligomineral elements have hydrating, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. This literature review discusses in vitro and in vivo clinical studies of commercially available thermal mineral waters to determine their effects on the skin and their main indications. A historical review was also carried out on the use of thermal mineral waters in dermatology, with an emphasis on identifying their physical and chemical properties and comparing the qualitative composition of the oligominerals present in those waters.

Keywords: MINERAL WATERS, SKIN, COSMETICS, HYDROTHERAPY

Introduction: Cosmiatric procedures are common in dermatology and products with moisturizing action are recommended in the post-procedure period in order to accelerate reepithelialization. Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing a skin barrier reparative complex, applied in the period after chemical exfoliation, used to reduce discomfort and improve skin hydration. Methods: Comparative, randomized clinical study with 52 volunteer patients. The patients were divided into two groups and had all undergone exfoliation with 5% retinoic acid. Clinical assessment and biophysical technique measurements were performed during visits 1 (D0) to 6 (D7), using the test product in combination with sunscreen (Group I) or sunscreen only (Group II). Results: The group treated (Group I) showed better improvement of desquamation and dryness at all visits, with a statistical significance (p<0.05) for a reduction in desquamation in D4 and in D7. In the assessment of hydration, the treated group (Group I) achieved better results than the control (Group II), with statistical significance in D2, D3, and D4 (p<0.05). Conclusions: The use of the studied formulation was proven effective in improving symptoms and hydrating skin after cutaneous chemical exfoliation.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; SKIN; COSMETICS.

Introduction: Organic acids are widely used in cosmeceutic-based skincare due to their exfoliation and cell renewal related effects. A star anise derivative known as shikimic acid is an example. Objectives: To evaluate the antioxidant activity of shikimic acid and the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic preparations containing 3% of this active principle. Methods: The antioxidant activity was assessed through an in vitro method. Formulations of gel, gel cream, and a 3% solution of the acid were sequentially dispensed and preliminarily subjected to stability and sensory analysis. The clinical study was performed through non-invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Results: The shikimic acid showed antioxidant potential. All formulations were found to be stable and the addition of shikimic acid improved the sensory analysis of the gel and gel cream. In the clinical assessment, the gel and the solution showed significant alterations in microrelief and in the parameters linked to skin exfoliation. However, the gel cream formulation did not show such an effect, suggesting the importance of the vehicle for the effectiveness of the cosmeceutics. Conclusions: Shikimic acid can be considered an active principle with good potential for application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at exfoliation and improvement of the skin's microrelief.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Modern life in large urban centers exposes its residents to new factors related to extrinsic aging, such as pollution, poor diet and emotional stress. Treatments proposed for this cause of aging include the use of cosmeceutical products with antioxidant action.
Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing antioxidant substances in the treatment of skin affected by the effects of urban life.
Methods: Prospective clinical study evaluating 33 volunteers residing in urban centers. Clinical and instrumental measurements were carried out through the use of specific questionnaires and images captured using a VISIA device at baseline and twenty-eight days after using the product twice a day, in combination with sunscreen.
Results: The comparison of the data obtained from questionnaires applied in the initial and final visits showed a statistically significant improvement in most of the analyzed variables. There was a reduction of 15.78% in the extrinsic aging score. The image analysis demonstrated a statistically significant improvement (p <0.05) for the variables color uniformity and reduction of pores.
Conclusions: The use of the combination of active antioxidant substances led to an improvement in clinical and instrumental parameters of extrinsic aging caused by the phenomena linked to urban life ("urban damage"), arising as an alternative for this new indication.

Keywords: COSMETICS; ANTIOXIDANTS; ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION

Introduction: The evaluation of the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations in real conditions of use is indispensable and the correlation of these results with texture and sensory profile analyses is necessary because impacts directly in the continuity of cosmetic treatment.
Objective: The evaluation and correlation of the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing alfafa oligosaccharides, cassava polysaccharides and sunscreens.
Methods: It was evaluated the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of formulations through biophysical and imaging analysis techniques.
Results: The methods presented a good correlation, because formulation added with suncreens and active ingredients provided better spreadability and sensorial properties. The assessment of clinical efficacy was coherent with the sensory analysis once the "skin smoothness" parameter could be proven with the increase of hydration and improvement of skin microrelief.
Conclusions: The application and correlation of the used techniques enabled the definition and obtainment of a formulation with sensory acceptance and proven clinical efficacy in the improvement of texture and skin hydration. Thus, this study provides contribution in dermatological area, once an appropriate sensory favors the adhesion to the use of the product and the consequent treatment success.

Keywords: EFFICACY; COSMETICS; BIOPHYSICS; POLYSACCHARIDES; OLIGOSACCHARIDES

Introduction: Melasma is a pigmentation disorder that mainly affects women of childbearing age with high phototypes. Polypodium leucotomos has antioxidant, photoprotective and immuno-modulatory activity, and can be considered as an adjunctive treatment for melasma.
Objective: To evaluate the efficacy, in relation to quality of life and objective improvement, of the use of Polypodium leucotomos in the treatment of melasma.
Methods: Prospective and individualized study. Nine volunteers with melasma were submitted to treatment with Polypodium leucotomos for 45 days. MELASQoL, DLQI and MASI scores were calculated at the beginning (D0) and 45 days after (D45). Analysis of variance ANOVA with Tukey post-test for comparison be-tween D0 and D45 (p <0.05).
Results: All patients were females, mean age of 37.18 ± 6.78 years. Family history of melasma in 55.6%; 88.9% with unprotected photoexposure and use of estrogen. After 45 days of treatment with Polypodium leucotomos there was a significant reduction of ME-LASQoL and DLQI (p <0.05) and improvement of MASI in 55.6% of the patients.
Conclusions: There was improvement of MASI in 55.6% of patients after 45 days of treatment. In spite of the slight improvement in MASI, there was a reflex in the improvement of quality of life scores (DLQI and MELASQoL).

Keywords: MELANOSIS; POLYPODIUM; QUALITY OF LIFE; INDICATORS OF QUALITY OF LIFE

INTRODUCTION: Hidradenitis supurativa (HS) is a chronic skin disease whose mechanism is not yet fully understood. It has a direct impact on the quality of life of affected patients, but there is no well-established therapy for its treatment.
OBJECTIVE: To assess the quality of life of patients diagnosed with HS on adalimumab using the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) questionnaire.
METHODS: Information was collected from patients with HS on adalimumab and standard DLQI questionnaires were applied before the beginning of treatment and at least 12 weeks after.
RESULTS: Of the three patients included, two presented decreased DLQI. Of these two, one showed significant improvement after treatment with adalimumab. The third patient showed worsening of this index.
CONCLUSIONS: The impact of hidradenitis supurativa on the quality of life of affected patients is significant and is related to factors other than adequate therapy. Life habits such as smoking and alcoholism, as well as the presence of other comorbidities, probably impact these indices. Affected patients should be assessed globally to determine the actual impact on the quality of life related to the disease in question. Thus, we suggest further studies with a larger number of patients.

Keywords: Hidradenitis suppurativa; Quality of life; Indicators of quality of life

The lower eyelid is one of the sites most affected by basal cell carcinoma (BCC). We present an option of inner corner skin flap with oral mucosa graft for eyelid reconstruction after BCC excision. This tumor affects approximately 60% of the lower eyelid and shows complete lower lacrimal canaliculus involvement. The use of internal corner skin transposition flap and oral mucosa graft is safe. The technique is reproducible and with good postoperative evolution. Positioning and eyelid movement were restored, allowing tear drainage through the upper canaliculus with complete correction of the tears’ overflow (epiphora).

Keywords: Basal cell carcinoma; Skin Neoplasms; Dermatological Surgical Procedures; Surgical Flaps

O queratoacantoma (QA), apesar de frequente na prática diária, é um tumor que gera questionamentos. O aspecto mais intrigante associa-se à sua posição no limite entre malignidade e benignidade. A abordagem do tumor, bem como sua classificação, é controversa. Na definição da conduta, é importante levar em conta o potencial de transformação para carcinoma espinocelular. Desse modo, a excisão cirúrgica é a terapia de escolha, sempre que possível. Algumas situações merecem atenção adicional, como a imunossupressão associada. Neste artigo, relatamos um caso de QA gigante em um paciente com síndrome da imunodeficiência adquirida tratado com cirurgia micrográfica de Mohs.

Keywords: Ceratoacantoma; Retalhos Cirúrgicos; Neoplasias Nasais; Neoplasias Cutâneas; Cirurgia de Mohs; Síndrome de Imunodeficiência Adquirida; HIV; Imunossupressão

Sarcomas são neoplasias mesenquimais malignas, raras, que acometem, principalmente, crianças e adolescentes. O rabdomiossarcoma, subtipo oriundo da musculatura esquelética, é condição incomum em adultos, acometendo sítios de localização não habitual, crescimento rápido e de difícil tratamento. Apresenta-se caso de adulto jovem com nodulação em lóbulo auricular esquerdo, cuja análise histopatológica e imuno-histoquímica confirmou tratar-se de rabdomiossarcoma alveolar, o qual foi conduzido em conjunto com a Oncologia.

Keywords: Rabdomiossarcoma Alveolar; Miogenina; Desmina; Excisão de Linfonodo

The rapid expansion of the cosmetics industry has been accompanied by an increasing demand for innovative and customized products based on scientific base. One of the innovative products is a nanotechnology-based product. This article discusses any potential risks associated with nanotechnology-based cosmetics use, how the government should regulate the product to protect the public and promote public understanding. The government should create effective regulations, but these regulations must not be detrimental to manufacturers. The government has an essential role in establishing effective regulations for both consumers and producers. In addition, the government should encourage manufacturers to provide rational claims and effective advertising.

Keywords: Cosmetics; Nanotechnology; Safety; Pharmacovigilance.

INTRODUCTION: The journal Surgical & Cosmetic Dermatology (SCD), founded in 2009, has played a central role in disseminating scientific advances in dermatologic surgery, cosmetic dermatology, and related clinical practices in Brazil and Latin America. However, studies evaluating its scientific output from a bibliometric and scientific network perspective remain scarce.
OBJECTIVE: To map the principal authors, institutions, and topics covered by the journal, as well as its patterns of scientific collaboration.
METHODS: Over 1000 studies published since the inception of SCD were analyzed using data extracted from its digital archive. Bibliometric indicators and co-authorship networks were processed with specific data analysis and visualization tools.
RESULTS: The results identified the most productive and influential authors and highlighted consolidated institutional and international collaborations.
CONCLUSIONS: The findings demonstrate the evolution of the journal’s scientific scope and its relevance as an open-access platform for disseminating dermatological knowledge. This information may serve as a valuable resource for researchers, editors, and institutions interested in the editorial history and direction of SCD.

Keywords: Bibliometrics; Dermatological Surgical Procedures; Cosmetic Techniques; Collaboration Indicator