Background: It has been proposed that thermal water can be used as an anti-inflammatory and mild hydrating agent in the preparation of skincare formulations. However, due to the complex process and strict quality control associated with its extraction from the ground, an oligoelements complex that mimics the effects of thermal water on skin is being used instead. Objective:To evaluate the stability and effects of thermal water and its oligoelements in the formulation of cosmeceuticals, as well as their immediate effects on the skin. Methods: An aqueous gel, a gel cream and an emulsion were prepared with and without the addition of oligoelements and submitted to physical stability analysis.The more stable preparations were tested on study subjects’ forearms. The objective evaluation of the effects on the skin’s texture and hydration was conducted according to biophysical and image analysis techniques before, immediately after and 2 hours after application. Questionnaires assessed participants’ subjective perceptions of the various formulations.The possible anti-inflammatory effects were not evaluated. Results: The effects of the more stable gel formulations were assessed on 15 study subjects.The gels increased the content of the aqueous corneum stratum, while the waters only produced an improvement of the skin’s texture. Conclusion: The results obtained from the subjective and objective analyses coincided and suggested the usefulness of the oligoelements complex in cosmeceutical products for moisturizing the skin.

Keywords: TRACE ELEMENTS, COSMETICS, WETTING AGENTS

Introduction: Some foods can have therapeutic value in the treatment of photoaging. Objective: To clinically evaluate the efficacy of a nutritional supplement in the improvement of photoaging signs and correlate with an in vitro study. Methods: A nutritional supplement was evaluated clinically and in vitro, with a culture of fibroblasts. Patients with clinical signs of photoaging (n = 48) were studied while using a nutritional supplement, with clinical and instrumental (cutometry) evaluations at 56, 84 and 112 days. Results: There was progressive and significant improvement (p < 0.05) in the elasticity, firmness, fine lines and general appearance of the skin.The fibroblast cultures indicated a significant rate of collagen synthesis when compared to the control culture after 48 hours of incubation. Discussion: The oral use of some vitamins and natural compounds has a therapeutic effect on the signs of photoaging.This study has demonstrated that a combination of linseed oil, lycopene, carotenoids, vitamin E, zinc and selenium possibly improve the signs of aging not only through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms, but also by increasing collagen production. Conclusions: Nutritional supplements are useful in the care of photoaged skin.

Keywords: FIBROBLASTS, SKIN AGING, ANTIOXIDANTS

Introduction:The French cosmetics industry sells spring mineral waters that are advertised as having biological benefits.
Objective: This study analyzes, in vitro and in vivo, a Brazilian mineral water''''''''s oligomin- erals composition, as well as its physical and chemical characteristics and biological effects.
Methods: Tests to evaluate physical chemical properties, cytotoxicity (viable cells) and irritability (het-cam test) were conducted. In vitro studies were performed to evaluate its capacity to induce the genic expression and immunohistochemical detection of filaggrin and aquaporin 3, nf-kb activity and fibroblast proliferation compared to Milli Q water.
Results: This water was found to be non-cytotoxic and non-irritating. In addition, it pre- sented a high content of strontium (0.61 mg/ml). The expression of filaggrin and its immunohistochemical tests were relevant. The aquaporin 3 increased 1.8 times and nf-kb decreased its activity by 47%. It was also capable of stimulating fibroblast proliferation.
Conclusion: The initial evaluation of the mineral water from Serra do Japi (SP, Brazil) indicates that it has the potential to be an adjuvant treatment in dermatology, since the results suggest it moisturizes the skin barrier, stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts, and repairs and inhibits inflammatory reactions. Clinical studies should be done in order to reassure the in vitro results achieved on the present study.

Keywords: MINERAL WATERS, BRAZIL, COSMETICS

Introduction: The aging process of areas of the body that are frequently exposed to the sun has a clinical pattern different from that of facial photoaging. According to a number of published studies, the combination of retinaldehyde, glycolic acid, and nicotinamide presents promising results. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a new dermocosmetic formulation in the treatment of body photoaging. Methods: Clinical, prospective, open, and monocentric study that evaluated 60 volunteers (phototypes I to III) with signs of photoaging in the neck region. Clinical and instrumental measurements (cutometry, corneometry, evaporimetry, and profilometry) were taken in the initial visits and 30 and 60 days after using the study product, which was applied at night, combined with the daytime application of sunscreen. Results: After using the test product, the categories of clinical parameters (wrinkles, smoothness, hydration, and sagging) and biophysical hydration (measured using corneometry) presented statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in the intermediate and final visits. Despite showing improvement, the biophysical measurements of skin viscoelasticity and roughness were not statistically significant. Conclusion: This combination was effective in the clinical improvement of body photoaging, and is an effective and safe alternative for treating this condition.

Keywords: SKIN AGING, COSMETICS, THERAPEUTICS

The French cosmetics industry has been marketing thermal mineral waters that have certain biological effects. Previous studies have demonstrated that oligomineral elements have hydrating, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. This literature review discusses in vitro and in vivo clinical studies of commercially available thermal mineral waters to determine their effects on the skin and their main indications. A historical review was also carried out on the use of thermal mineral waters in dermatology, with an emphasis on identifying their physical and chemical properties and comparing the qualitative composition of the oligominerals present in those waters.

Keywords: MINERAL WATERS, SKIN, COSMETICS, HYDROTHERAPY

Introduction: UV light-induced photodamage is an acute precipitator of solar erythema, which is the phenomenon measured to assess the protection against the sun provided by a particular product. Objective: To investigate the ability of a dietary supplement containing antioxidants (carotenoids, trace elements/oligoelements, flaxseed oil, and vitamins E and C) to prevent photodamage, using as a parameter the minimum erythema dose level. Method: The minimum erythema dose level of 28 volunteers (Fitzpatrick skin types 2 and 3) was measured with a solar simulator, before and after 30 and 60 days of supplement use. Results: The daily use of the supplement was well tolerated. There was a significant increase in the minimum erythema dose level in the group evaluated (p = 0.017). Conclusion: The studied combination of antioxidants was demonstrated to increase the minimum erythema dose level with statistical significance, suggesting the presence of photoprotective activity.

Keywords: ULTRAVIOLET RAYS, ANTIOXIDANTS, CAROTENOIDS.

Introduction: Cosmiatric procedures are common in dermatology and products with moisturizing action are recommended in the post-procedure period in order to accelerate reepithelialization. Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing a skin barrier reparative complex, applied in the period after chemical exfoliation, used to reduce discomfort and improve skin hydration. Methods: Comparative, randomized clinical study with 52 volunteer patients. The patients were divided into two groups and had all undergone exfoliation with 5% retinoic acid. Clinical assessment and biophysical technique measurements were performed during visits 1 (D0) to 6 (D7), using the test product in combination with sunscreen (Group I) or sunscreen only (Group II). Results: The group treated (Group I) showed better improvement of desquamation and dryness at all visits, with a statistical significance (p<0.05) for a reduction in desquamation in D4 and in D7. In the assessment of hydration, the treated group (Group I) achieved better results than the control (Group II), with statistical significance in D2, D3, and D4 (p<0.05). Conclusions: The use of the studied formulation was proven effective in improving symptoms and hydrating skin after cutaneous chemical exfoliation.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; SKIN; COSMETICS.

Introduction: Organic acids are widely used in cosmeceutic-based skincare due to their exfoliation and cell renewal related effects. A star anise derivative known as shikimic acid is an example. Objectives: To evaluate the antioxidant activity of shikimic acid and the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic preparations containing 3% of this active principle. Methods: The antioxidant activity was assessed through an in vitro method. Formulations of gel, gel cream, and a 3% solution of the acid were sequentially dispensed and preliminarily subjected to stability and sensory analysis. The clinical study was performed through non-invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Results: The shikimic acid showed antioxidant potential. All formulations were found to be stable and the addition of shikimic acid improved the sensory analysis of the gel and gel cream. In the clinical assessment, the gel and the solution showed significant alterations in microrelief and in the parameters linked to skin exfoliation. However, the gel cream formulation did not show such an effect, suggesting the importance of the vehicle for the effectiveness of the cosmeceutics. Conclusions: Shikimic acid can be considered an active principle with good potential for application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at exfoliation and improvement of the skin's microrelief.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Solar radiation can produce erythema and pigmentation in the skin, interfering with pigmentary dermatoses such as melasma. Photoprotection is essential in the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation. The use of Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in reducing the damage resulting from solar radiation, through antioxidant and immunomodulatory mechanisms. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of Polypodium leucotomos extract in reducing the erythema and pigmentation following exposure to solar radiation. Methods: Twenty volunteers were exposed to UVB and UVA radiation emitted by a solar simulator. The reading of the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses were performed after two and 24 hours of exposure, respectively. After seven, 14 and 28 days use of Polypodium leucotomos extract (1,000 mg daily), the minimum pigmentary erythema doses were re-assessed. Results: There was an increase in mean values for the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses in all visits, with a statistical significance of (p <0.05) after 28 days for the minimum pigmentary dose and after 14 and 28 days for the minimum erythema dose. Conclusions: The continued use of a compound containing Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in increasing individual resistance to pigmentation and erythema resulting from UV radiation, meaning it can contribute to the treatment of skin pigmentation disorders such as melasma.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Modern life in large urban centers exposes its residents to new factors related to extrinsic aging, such as pollution, poor diet and emotional stress. Treatments proposed for this cause of aging include the use of cosmeceutical products with antioxidant action.
Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing antioxidant substances in the treatment of skin affected by the effects of urban life.
Methods: Prospective clinical study evaluating 33 volunteers residing in urban centers. Clinical and instrumental measurements were carried out through the use of specific questionnaires and images captured using a VISIA device at baseline and twenty-eight days after using the product twice a day, in combination with sunscreen.
Results: The comparison of the data obtained from questionnaires applied in the initial and final visits showed a statistically significant improvement in most of the analyzed variables. There was a reduction of 15.78% in the extrinsic aging score. The image analysis demonstrated a statistically significant improvement (p <0.05) for the variables color uniformity and reduction of pores.
Conclusions: The use of the combination of active antioxidant substances led to an improvement in clinical and instrumental parameters of extrinsic aging caused by the phenomena linked to urban life ("urban damage"), arising as an alternative for this new indication.

Keywords: COSMETICS; ANTIOXIDANTS; ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION

Introduction: The evaluation of the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations in real conditions of use is indispensable and the correlation of these results with texture and sensory profile analyses is necessary because impacts directly in the continuity of cosmetic treatment.
Objective: The evaluation and correlation of the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing alfafa oligosaccharides, cassava polysaccharides and sunscreens.
Methods: It was evaluated the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of formulations through biophysical and imaging analysis techniques.
Results: The methods presented a good correlation, because formulation added with suncreens and active ingredients provided better spreadability and sensorial properties. The assessment of clinical efficacy was coherent with the sensory analysis once the "skin smoothness" parameter could be proven with the increase of hydration and improvement of skin microrelief.
Conclusions: The application and correlation of the used techniques enabled the definition and obtainment of a formulation with sensory acceptance and proven clinical efficacy in the improvement of texture and skin hydration. Thus, this study provides contribution in dermatological area, once an appropriate sensory favors the adhesion to the use of the product and the consequent treatment success.

Keywords: EFFICACY; COSMETICS; BIOPHYSICS; POLYSACCHARIDES; OLIGOSACCHARIDES

INTRODUCTION: The term inflammaging refers to the increase of the inflammatory response due to aging, resulting in a low level chronic pro-inflammatory state. High levels of proinflammatory cytokines such as interleukin-1, interleukin-6, and tumor necrosis factor occur. Thus, the use of active principles that modulate the inflammatory response assists in the reduction of cellular oxidative stress, also reducing or avoiding irreversible cellular and non-clinically detectable molecular damage.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the action of a compound containing collagen peptides, Delphinol^®, vitamin C and hibiscus on the modulation of the cutaneous inflammatory response.
SUPORTE FINANCEIRO: Laboratório Farmoquímica, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, Brasil. Conflito de Interesses: Os autores afirmam não possuir interesses pessoais, comerciais, políticos ou financeiros neste manuscrito.
MATERIALS AND METHODS: The release of inflammatory cytokines after treatment with the product was evaluated in keratinocytes exposed to an inflammatory response-inducing lipopolysaccharide.
RESULTS: When keratinocytes were exposed to the studied compound, it was possible to observe an increase in the release of interleukin 6 and a reduction tendency in the levels of interleukin 1-alpha and interleukin-8. In addition, the release of basal tumor necrosis factor-alpha was reduced by 67.5% (P = 0.008).
CONCLUSIONS: The compound studied has a potential effect on inflammaging — and consequently on aging — by modulating the inflammatory cytokines interleukin-1 alpha, interleukin-6, interleukin-8 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha.

Keywords: Aging; Anti-Inflammatory agents; Antioxidants; Ascorbic acid; Collagen; Dietary Suplements; Hibiscus; Inflammation mediators; Skin; Skin aging

Skin quality and function drastically reduces with age due to chronological aging, photoaging, environmental factors and hormonal deficiencies. Decreased menopausal estrogen levels play a role in cutaneous atrophy, collagen and water content, loss of elasticity, skin wrinkling and deficiency of wound healing. Much research has been done to elucidate the beneficial effects of topical estrogen, which would have a more localized action on the skin without systemic side effects. The objective of this study was to review the relevant literature, demonstrating that this may be a safe and effective alternative for the treatment of women's skin in perimenopause.

Keywords: Estrogens; Phytoestrogens; Skin aging; Collagen; Antioxidants

INTRODUCTION: The use of botanical extracts in dermatological treatments has received special attention in worldwide literature, especially for its antioxidant action. Different products containing Polypodium leucotomos and Pinus pinasters extracts are commercially available in industrialized presentations or compounding. However, in the second case, there is no standardization in the extraction process and there is a lack of data regarding the quantitative and qualitative content in the referred formulations that demonstrate its effectiveness and safety.
PURPOSES: to assess the different concentrations of actives in standardized and patented botanical extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), respectively, comparing them to products offered by compounding pharmacies.
METHODOLOGY: The products were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography, and pharmacologically active markers were identified in peaks by retention time.
RESULTS: the concentrations of identified actives varied in the different products analyzed, being undetectable in many of them. Only industrialized products with standardized and patented extracts showed all the expected markers.
CONCLUSION: consistency was observed in specific products containing the patented extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), demonstrating the importance of standardization in extraction processes and studies on the efficacy and safety profiles.

Keywords: Antioxidants; Plant extracts; Flavonoids

The rapid expansion of the cosmetics industry has been accompanied by an increasing demand for innovative and customized products based on scientific base. One of the innovative products is a nanotechnology-based product. This article discusses any potential risks associated with nanotechnology-based cosmetics use, how the government should regulate the product to protect the public and promote public understanding. The government should create effective regulations, but these regulations must not be detrimental to manufacturers. The government has an essential role in establishing effective regulations for both consumers and producers. In addition, the government should encourage manufacturers to provide rational claims and effective advertising.

Keywords: Cosmetics; Nanotechnology; Safety; Pharmacovigilance.