Introduction: Incidence of skin cancer has increased signifi cantly in recent decades, corresponding to a public health problem in many countries. Skin is the organ most affected by the deleterious effects of ultraviolet radiation and the association between sun exposure and skin cancer is well-documented. Objective: To conduct a comprehensive review of the main photoprotection measures. Method: We conducted searches on MEDLINE from June 22 through August 18. Descriptive studies, review, and comparisons were analyzed together. Results: We selected 11 articles in with a review of photoprotection, effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, prevalence of the use of sunscreens, and behavioral measures between adults and adolescents were reported. Conclusions: The use of broad-spectrum sunscreens, besides simple behavioral measures, appears to have a major impact on prevention of skin cancer.

Keywords: ULTRAVIOLET RAYS, ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT, SUNLIGHT, ULTRAVIOLET FILTERS, CARCINOMA, SQUAMOUS CELL, SQUAMOUS CELL CARCINOMA, CARCINOMA, BASAL CELL, BASAL CELL CARCINOMA, MELANOMA, VITAMIN D, STABILITY OF COSMETICS

Introduction: Some foods can have therapeutic value in the treatment of photoaging. Objective: To clinically evaluate the efficacy of a nutritional supplement in the improvement of photoaging signs and correlate with an in vitro study. Methods: A nutritional supplement was evaluated clinically and in vitro, with a culture of fibroblasts. Patients with clinical signs of photoaging (n = 48) were studied while using a nutritional supplement, with clinical and instrumental (cutometry) evaluations at 56, 84 and 112 days. Results: There was progressive and significant improvement (p < 0.05) in the elasticity, firmness, fine lines and general appearance of the skin.The fibroblast cultures indicated a significant rate of collagen synthesis when compared to the control culture after 48 hours of incubation. Discussion: The oral use of some vitamins and natural compounds has a therapeutic effect on the signs of photoaging.This study has demonstrated that a combination of linseed oil, lycopene, carotenoids, vitamin E, zinc and selenium possibly improve the signs of aging not only through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms, but also by increasing collagen production. Conclusions: Nutritional supplements are useful in the care of photoaged skin.

Keywords: FIBROBLASTS, SKIN AGING, ANTIOXIDANTS

Introduction: Melasma, a very frequent acquired hypermelanosis can be treated topically, however some studies have shown that oral antioxidants could reduce the deleterious effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.
Objective: To evaluate the effects of oral antioxidants and UVA/UVB sunscreen on the development of melasma during the summer months in Rio de Janeiro (RJ), Brazil – a period when the condition recurs more frequently.
Methods: Patients (n = 68) with melasma were randomized to receive one capsule/day of the nutri-concentrate (containing lycopene, beta-carotene and Lactobacillus johnsonii) and apply sunscreen every 3 hours (Group A) or sunscreen only (Group B). The patients were photographed and evaluated according to the Taylor Hyperpigmentation Scale and the Melasma Area Severity Index.
Results: The study was conducted from December 2010 to March 2011. Group A presented reductions in melasma of 8.5% on the Taylor scale and 19.5% on the Melasma Area Severity Index (p < 0.001). In Group B, the melasma worsened on the Taylor scale and improved 4.6% on the Index.
Conclusions: The use of a nutri-concentrate containing beta-carotene, lycopene and Lactobacillus johsonii combined with an SPF 60 sunscreen was an effective treatment for melasma during the summer. The treatment had a statistically significant reduction according to the Melasma Area Severity Index.

Keywords: MELANOSIS, CAROTENOIDS, LACTOBACILLUS, CLINICAL PROTOCOLS

Introduction: UV light-induced photodamage is an acute precipitator of solar erythema, which is the phenomenon measured to assess the protection against the sun provided by a particular product. Objective: To investigate the ability of a dietary supplement containing antioxidants (carotenoids, trace elements/oligoelements, flaxseed oil, and vitamins E and C) to prevent photodamage, using as a parameter the minimum erythema dose level. Method: The minimum erythema dose level of 28 volunteers (Fitzpatrick skin types 2 and 3) was measured with a solar simulator, before and after 30 and 60 days of supplement use. Results: The daily use of the supplement was well tolerated. There was a significant increase in the minimum erythema dose level in the group evaluated (p = 0.017). Conclusion: The studied combination of antioxidants was demonstrated to increase the minimum erythema dose level with statistical significance, suggesting the presence of photoprotective activity.

Keywords: ULTRAVIOLET RAYS, ANTIOXIDANTS, CAROTENOIDS.

Introduction: Organic acids are widely used in cosmeceutic-based skincare due to their exfoliation and cell renewal related effects. A star anise derivative known as shikimic acid is an example. Objectives: To evaluate the antioxidant activity of shikimic acid and the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic preparations containing 3% of this active principle. Methods: The antioxidant activity was assessed through an in vitro method. Formulations of gel, gel cream, and a 3% solution of the acid were sequentially dispensed and preliminarily subjected to stability and sensory analysis. The clinical study was performed through non-invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Results: The shikimic acid showed antioxidant potential. All formulations were found to be stable and the addition of shikimic acid improved the sensory analysis of the gel and gel cream. In the clinical assessment, the gel and the solution showed significant alterations in microrelief and in the parameters linked to skin exfoliation. However, the gel cream formulation did not show such an effect, suggesting the importance of the vehicle for the effectiveness of the cosmeceutics. Conclusions: Shikimic acid can be considered an active principle with good potential for application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at exfoliation and improvement of the skin's microrelief.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Solar radiation can produce erythema and pigmentation in the skin, interfering with pigmentary dermatoses such as melasma. Photoprotection is essential in the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation. The use of Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in reducing the damage resulting from solar radiation, through antioxidant and immunomodulatory mechanisms. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of Polypodium leucotomos extract in reducing the erythema and pigmentation following exposure to solar radiation. Methods: Twenty volunteers were exposed to UVB and UVA radiation emitted by a solar simulator. The reading of the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses were performed after two and 24 hours of exposure, respectively. After seven, 14 and 28 days use of Polypodium leucotomos extract (1,000 mg daily), the minimum pigmentary erythema doses were re-assessed. Results: There was an increase in mean values for the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses in all visits, with a statistical significance of (p <0.05) after 28 days for the minimum pigmentary dose and after 14 and 28 days for the minimum erythema dose. Conclusions: The continued use of a compound containing Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in increasing individual resistance to pigmentation and erythema resulting from UV radiation, meaning it can contribute to the treatment of skin pigmentation disorders such as melasma.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Modern life in large urban centers exposes its residents to new factors related to extrinsic aging, such as pollution, poor diet and emotional stress. Treatments proposed for this cause of aging include the use of cosmeceutical products with antioxidant action.
Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing antioxidant substances in the treatment of skin affected by the effects of urban life.
Methods: Prospective clinical study evaluating 33 volunteers residing in urban centers. Clinical and instrumental measurements were carried out through the use of specific questionnaires and images captured using a VISIA device at baseline and twenty-eight days after using the product twice a day, in combination with sunscreen.
Results: The comparison of the data obtained from questionnaires applied in the initial and final visits showed a statistically significant improvement in most of the analyzed variables. There was a reduction of 15.78% in the extrinsic aging score. The image analysis demonstrated a statistically significant improvement (p <0.05) for the variables color uniformity and reduction of pores.
Conclusions: The use of the combination of active antioxidant substances led to an improvement in clinical and instrumental parameters of extrinsic aging caused by the phenomena linked to urban life ("urban damage"), arising as an alternative for this new indication.

Keywords: COSMETICS; ANTIOXIDANTS; ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION

Introduction: Photoprotectors are the active ingredients of sunscreens with the capability of protecting the skin against UV radiation. An increasing number of such photoprotection ingredients have been launched in the marketplace, causing sunscreens' formulas to become increasingly varied. Objective: To list the main active photoprotection ingredients contained in formulations commercially available in Brazil, as well as to document the presence of other ingredients contained in sunscreens. Methods: The authors inspected four drugstores in the city of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and analyzed the formulas of the SPF 30 sunscreens available. The active photoprotector substances found in all formulations were listed and the percentage of each of them was compared to those contained in all sunscreens evaluated. The presence of plant extracts and antioxidants was also documented. Results: Thirty commercially available SPF 30 sunscreens were found in different drugstores, having their formulas analyzed. Within this sample, there were 17 different active photoprotection principles, of which titanium dioxide was the most frequently found, followed by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Conclusion: The present study lists the profiles of photoprotection active principles found in the main sunscreens on sale in Brazil and provides data for further evaluation of changes in these profiles over time, as new sunscreens are launched in the marketplace.

Keywords: PHOTOPROTECTORS; SUNSCREENS; PHOTOPROTECTION; ULTRAVIOLET RAYS

INTRODUCTION: The term inflammaging refers to the increase of the inflammatory response due to aging, resulting in a low level chronic pro-inflammatory state. High levels of proinflammatory cytokines such as interleukin-1, interleukin-6, and tumor necrosis factor occur. Thus, the use of active principles that modulate the inflammatory response assists in the reduction of cellular oxidative stress, also reducing or avoiding irreversible cellular and non-clinically detectable molecular damage.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the action of a compound containing collagen peptides, Delphinol^®, vitamin C and hibiscus on the modulation of the cutaneous inflammatory response.
SUPORTE FINANCEIRO: Laboratório Farmoquímica, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, Brasil. Conflito de Interesses: Os autores afirmam não possuir interesses pessoais, comerciais, políticos ou financeiros neste manuscrito.
MATERIALS AND METHODS: The release of inflammatory cytokines after treatment with the product was evaluated in keratinocytes exposed to an inflammatory response-inducing lipopolysaccharide.
RESULTS: When keratinocytes were exposed to the studied compound, it was possible to observe an increase in the release of interleukin 6 and a reduction tendency in the levels of interleukin 1-alpha and interleukin-8. In addition, the release of basal tumor necrosis factor-alpha was reduced by 67.5% (P = 0.008).
CONCLUSIONS: The compound studied has a potential effect on inflammaging — and consequently on aging — by modulating the inflammatory cytokines interleukin-1 alpha, interleukin-6, interleukin-8 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha.

Keywords: Aging; Anti-Inflammatory agents; Antioxidants; Ascorbic acid; Collagen; Dietary Suplements; Hibiscus; Inflammation mediators; Skin; Skin aging

INTRODUCTION: Vitiligo is a pigmentation disorder characterized by white spots on the skin and mucous membranes. Wnt1 protein belongs to the Wnt signaling pathway. Wnt1 induction is linked with melanocyte stem cell differentiation in hair follicles on lentigo solaris, which is a hyperpigmentation skin disorder in sun-exposed area. This assumes the possibility of Wnt1 induction with NB-UVB therapy, which causes perifollicular repigmentation on vitiligo.
OBJECTIVES: To compare Wnt1 expressions in vitiligo repigmentation after NB-UVB treatment and to identify the relationship between Wnt1 expressions and vitiligo repigmentation area.
MATERIALS AND METHODS: The subjects of the study were 18 vitiligo patients. Immunohistochemical examination was conducted on vitiligo skin tissues pre- and post-phototherapy treatment twice a week for two months.
RESULTS: There were significant differences in the vitiligo lesion area between pre and post-therapy. Also, there were significant differences in Wnt1 expressions between pre and post-therapy. There was a correlation between the post-therapy Wnt1 expressions and the post-therapy vitiligo lesion area.
CONCLUSIONS: Wnt1 induction occurs in hair follicles post-NB-UVB therapy, causing pigmentation around hair follicles. Further studies are needed on the Wnt1 protein mechanism resulting in pigmentation around hair follicles.

Keywords: Hair Follicle; Melanocytes; Ultraviolet Therapy; Wnt1 Protein; Phototherapy; Vitiligo

Skin quality and function drastically reduces with age due to chronological aging, photoaging, environmental factors and hormonal deficiencies. Decreased menopausal estrogen levels play a role in cutaneous atrophy, collagen and water content, loss of elasticity, skin wrinkling and deficiency of wound healing. Much research has been done to elucidate the beneficial effects of topical estrogen, which would have a more localized action on the skin without systemic side effects. The objective of this study was to review the relevant literature, demonstrating that this may be a safe and effective alternative for the treatment of women's skin in perimenopause.

Keywords: Estrogens; Phytoestrogens; Skin aging; Collagen; Antioxidants

INTRODUCTION: The use of botanical extracts in dermatological treatments has received special attention in worldwide literature, especially for its antioxidant action. Different products containing Polypodium leucotomos and Pinus pinasters extracts are commercially available in industrialized presentations or compounding. However, in the second case, there is no standardization in the extraction process and there is a lack of data regarding the quantitative and qualitative content in the referred formulations that demonstrate its effectiveness and safety.
PURPOSES: to assess the different concentrations of actives in standardized and patented botanical extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), respectively, comparing them to products offered by compounding pharmacies.
METHODOLOGY: The products were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography, and pharmacologically active markers were identified in peaks by retention time.
RESULTS: the concentrations of identified actives varied in the different products analyzed, being undetectable in many of them. Only industrialized products with standardized and patented extracts showed all the expected markers.
CONCLUSION: consistency was observed in specific products containing the patented extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), demonstrating the importance of standardization in extraction processes and studies on the efficacy and safety profiles.

Keywords: Antioxidants; Plant extracts; Flavonoids