Introduction: Infrared radiation (IR-A) causes structural changes in the skin, similar to those caused by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Evaluation of efficacy and safety of cosmetic products concentrates in in vitro tests and clinical trials. A promising alternative is the use of fragments of human skin from elective cosmetic surgery, to evaluate the actual clinical benefits of a product applied topically.
Objective: The objective of this study was to correlate IR-A radiation effects in biopsies and in ex vivo skin fragments and in human fibroblasts culture by quantifying MMP-1, TIMP-1 and GADD45a mediators.
Methods: Collection of biopsies from 15 volunteers after IR-A applications for 5 consecutive days. Exposure to IR-A radiation of human skin fragments from elective cosmetic surgery, and human fibroblasts culture. Measurement of MMP-1, TIMP-1 and GADD45a mediators for further comparison of results.
Results: In the three models used, the IR-A radiation induced an increase in MMP-1, inhibited the synthesis of GADD45a, and did not changed TIMP-1 values.
Conclusion: Due to the positive correlation of the models studied, it may be suggested the use of ex vivo skin as plausible and sustainable tool to overcome differences between knowledge generated from in vitro and clinical experiments.

Keywords: SKIN AGING; MATRIX METALLOPROTEINASE 1; SOLAR RADIATION; IN VITRO TECHNIQUES

INTRODUCTION: Sclerotherapy is the most widely used method for the treatment of varicose veins of the lower limbs. The most common complication is the appearance of hyperchromic spots in the treated region. Pycnogenol^® has long been known as a phlebotonic, anti-inflammatory and skin depigmenting drug. Studies have already proven the efficacy of this drug in the prevention and treatment of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the effectiveness of Pinus pinaster extract (Pycnogenol^®; PPE) in the prevention of hemosiderin deposits in human skin culture submitted to inflammatory stress.
METHODS: Fragments of human skin were stimulated with interleukin 1 alpha (IL-1 α) to induce an inflammatory response and, concurrently treated with PPE for further histological evaluation and hemosiderin semi-quantification.
RESULTS: The histological evaluation of skin fragments exposed to IL-1 alpha revealed a 26.6% higher hemosiderin density compared with the control group. Moreover, skin fragments incubated concomitantly with PPE showed significant reductions in hemosiderin deposits when compared with the group only exposed to the inflammatory microenvironment.
CONCLUSIONS: The results presented in this study showed an important effect of PPE (Pycnogenol^®) in the prevention of hemosiderin accumulation caused by inflammatory stress similar to the post-sclerotherapy process.

Keywords: Hemosiderin; Hyperpigmentation; Sclerotherapy

INTRODUCTION: Oxidative stress, characterized by an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and antioxidant defense, seems to be the main process that worsens skin aging, and the mitochondria is an important source of ROS. There is increasing evidence that oral administration of functional nutrients can protect the skin from oxidative damage.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the effectiveness of an oral supplement with collagen peptides and other nutrients in reducing the signs of photoaging.
METHODS: In vitro studies evaluated the antioxidant and antiglycant effects under UV light, as well as the synthesis of extracellular dermal matrix components; then, a clinical trial was developed with women between 35 and 60 years old, for 12 weeks. Hydration (corneometry) and skin firmness (cutometry) measurements were performed.
RESULTS: The supplement showed antioxidant and antiglycant properties under the stress generated by UV radiation, as well as the ability to induce synthesis of extracellular dermal matrix elements; There was an improvement in all clinical parameters of aging. Significant improvement in hydration and firmness and elasticity were also observed.
CONCLUSION: Collagen peptides and nutrients association demonstrated an effect in some mechanisms involved in the photoaging process, leading a clinical improvement.

Keywords: Collagen; Exposome; Oxidation; Skin Aging; Glycation End Products, Advanced; Dietary Supplements.