Background: It has been proposed that thermal water can be used as an anti-inflammatory and mild hydrating agent in the preparation of skincare formulations. However, due to the complex process and strict quality control associated with its extraction from the ground, an oligoelements complex that mimics the effects of thermal water on skin is being used instead. Objective:To evaluate the stability and effects of thermal water and its oligoelements in the formulation of cosmeceuticals, as well as their immediate effects on the skin. Methods: An aqueous gel, a gel cream and an emulsion were prepared with and without the addition of oligoelements and submitted to physical stability analysis.The more stable preparations were tested on study subjects’ forearms. The objective evaluation of the effects on the skin’s texture and hydration was conducted according to biophysical and image analysis techniques before, immediately after and 2 hours after application. Questionnaires assessed participants’ subjective perceptions of the various formulations.The possible anti-inflammatory effects were not evaluated. Results: The effects of the more stable gel formulations were assessed on 15 study subjects.The gels increased the content of the aqueous corneum stratum, while the waters only produced an improvement of the skin’s texture. Conclusion: The results obtained from the subjective and objective analyses coincided and suggested the usefulness of the oligoelements complex in cosmeceutical products for moisturizing the skin.

Keywords: TRACE ELEMENTS, COSMETICS, WETTING AGENTS

Introduction:The French cosmetics industry sells spring mineral waters that are advertised as having biological benefits.
Objective: This study analyzes, in vitro and in vivo, a Brazilian mineral water''''''''s oligomin- erals composition, as well as its physical and chemical characteristics and biological effects.
Methods: Tests to evaluate physical chemical properties, cytotoxicity (viable cells) and irritability (het-cam test) were conducted. In vitro studies were performed to evaluate its capacity to induce the genic expression and immunohistochemical detection of filaggrin and aquaporin 3, nf-kb activity and fibroblast proliferation compared to Milli Q water.
Results: This water was found to be non-cytotoxic and non-irritating. In addition, it pre- sented a high content of strontium (0.61 mg/ml). The expression of filaggrin and its immunohistochemical tests were relevant. The aquaporin 3 increased 1.8 times and nf-kb decreased its activity by 47%. It was also capable of stimulating fibroblast proliferation.
Conclusion: The initial evaluation of the mineral water from Serra do Japi (SP, Brazil) indicates that it has the potential to be an adjuvant treatment in dermatology, since the results suggest it moisturizes the skin barrier, stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts, and repairs and inhibits inflammatory reactions. Clinical studies should be done in order to reassure the in vitro results achieved on the present study.

Keywords: MINERAL WATERS, BRAZIL, COSMETICS

Introduction: The aging process of areas of the body that are frequently exposed to the sun has a clinical pattern different from that of facial photoaging. According to a number of published studies, the combination of retinaldehyde, glycolic acid, and nicotinamide presents promising results. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a new dermocosmetic formulation in the treatment of body photoaging. Methods: Clinical, prospective, open, and monocentric study that evaluated 60 volunteers (phototypes I to III) with signs of photoaging in the neck region. Clinical and instrumental measurements (cutometry, corneometry, evaporimetry, and profilometry) were taken in the initial visits and 30 and 60 days after using the study product, which was applied at night, combined with the daytime application of sunscreen. Results: After using the test product, the categories of clinical parameters (wrinkles, smoothness, hydration, and sagging) and biophysical hydration (measured using corneometry) presented statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in the intermediate and final visits. Despite showing improvement, the biophysical measurements of skin viscoelasticity and roughness were not statistically significant. Conclusion: This combination was effective in the clinical improvement of body photoaging, and is an effective and safe alternative for treating this condition.

Keywords: SKIN AGING, COSMETICS, THERAPEUTICS

The French cosmetics industry has been marketing thermal mineral waters that have certain biological effects. Previous studies have demonstrated that oligomineral elements have hydrating, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. This literature review discusses in vitro and in vivo clinical studies of commercially available thermal mineral waters to determine their effects on the skin and their main indications. A historical review was also carried out on the use of thermal mineral waters in dermatology, with an emphasis on identifying their physical and chemical properties and comparing the qualitative composition of the oligominerals present in those waters.

Keywords: MINERAL WATERS, SKIN, COSMETICS, HYDROTHERAPY

Introduction: Cosmiatric procedures are common in dermatology and products with moisturizing action are recommended in the post-procedure period in order to accelerate reepithelialization. Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing a skin barrier reparative complex, applied in the period after chemical exfoliation, used to reduce discomfort and improve skin hydration. Methods: Comparative, randomized clinical study with 52 volunteer patients. The patients were divided into two groups and had all undergone exfoliation with 5% retinoic acid. Clinical assessment and biophysical technique measurements were performed during visits 1 (D0) to 6 (D7), using the test product in combination with sunscreen (Group I) or sunscreen only (Group II). Results: The group treated (Group I) showed better improvement of desquamation and dryness at all visits, with a statistical significance (p<0.05) for a reduction in desquamation in D4 and in D7. In the assessment of hydration, the treated group (Group I) achieved better results than the control (Group II), with statistical significance in D2, D3, and D4 (p<0.05). Conclusions: The use of the studied formulation was proven effective in improving symptoms and hydrating skin after cutaneous chemical exfoliation.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; SKIN; COSMETICS.

Introduction: Organic acids are widely used in cosmeceutic-based skincare due to their exfoliation and cell renewal related effects. A star anise derivative known as shikimic acid is an example. Objectives: To evaluate the antioxidant activity of shikimic acid and the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic preparations containing 3% of this active principle. Methods: The antioxidant activity was assessed through an in vitro method. Formulations of gel, gel cream, and a 3% solution of the acid were sequentially dispensed and preliminarily subjected to stability and sensory analysis. The clinical study was performed through non-invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Results: The shikimic acid showed antioxidant potential. All formulations were found to be stable and the addition of shikimic acid improved the sensory analysis of the gel and gel cream. In the clinical assessment, the gel and the solution showed significant alterations in microrelief and in the parameters linked to skin exfoliation. However, the gel cream formulation did not show such an effect, suggesting the importance of the vehicle for the effectiveness of the cosmeceutics. Conclusions: Shikimic acid can be considered an active principle with good potential for application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at exfoliation and improvement of the skin's microrelief.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Solar radiation can produce erythema and pigmentation in the skin, interfering with pigmentary dermatoses such as melasma. Photoprotection is essential in the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation. The use of Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in reducing the damage resulting from solar radiation, through antioxidant and immunomodulatory mechanisms. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of Polypodium leucotomos extract in reducing the erythema and pigmentation following exposure to solar radiation. Methods: Twenty volunteers were exposed to UVB and UVA radiation emitted by a solar simulator. The reading of the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses were performed after two and 24 hours of exposure, respectively. After seven, 14 and 28 days use of Polypodium leucotomos extract (1,000 mg daily), the minimum pigmentary erythema doses were re-assessed. Results: There was an increase in mean values for the minimum pigmentary and erythema doses in all visits, with a statistical significance of (p <0.05) after 28 days for the minimum pigmentary dose and after 14 and 28 days for the minimum erythema dose. Conclusions: The continued use of a compound containing Polypodium leucotomos extract was effective in increasing individual resistance to pigmentation and erythema resulting from UV radiation, meaning it can contribute to the treatment of skin pigmentation disorders such as melasma.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Modern life in large urban centers exposes its residents to new factors related to extrinsic aging, such as pollution, poor diet and emotional stress. Treatments proposed for this cause of aging include the use of cosmeceutical products with antioxidant action.
Objective: To evaluate a formulation containing antioxidant substances in the treatment of skin affected by the effects of urban life.
Methods: Prospective clinical study evaluating 33 volunteers residing in urban centers. Clinical and instrumental measurements were carried out through the use of specific questionnaires and images captured using a VISIA device at baseline and twenty-eight days after using the product twice a day, in combination with sunscreen.
Results: The comparison of the data obtained from questionnaires applied in the initial and final visits showed a statistically significant improvement in most of the analyzed variables. There was a reduction of 15.78% in the extrinsic aging score. The image analysis demonstrated a statistically significant improvement (p <0.05) for the variables color uniformity and reduction of pores.
Conclusions: The use of the combination of active antioxidant substances led to an improvement in clinical and instrumental parameters of extrinsic aging caused by the phenomena linked to urban life ("urban damage"), arising as an alternative for this new indication.

Keywords: COSMETICS; ANTIOXIDANTS; ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTION

Introduction: Cosmetics stands outs in commerce, not only in Brazil but also worldwide. There is great need for knowledge on buying motivations of consumers for the development of better-targeted products and improved adhesion to dermatological treatments.
Objective: To know the cosmetic consumption habits and provide a link from the pharmaceutical with the medical area.
Methods: An analytical observational study, cross-sectional, was conducted by questionnaire.
Results: Main change in male skin is oiliness; in women, besides oiliness, there is concern with blemishes. The consumption of hygiene products is unanimous in both sexes. Women are more concerned with the treatment and prevention of sun damage. The vast majority of women use anti-acne products and makeup. Hair products have the same sales trend for both men and women, but this is not observed among products for skin.
Conclusions: Men and women have different motivations when buying cosmetics. The way consumers relate with products has changed dramatically and they are seeking to express their individuality in society. This reflects a need for medical knowledge of such motivations in order to improve patients' adherence to treatment.

Keywords: COSMETICS; HABITS; QUESTIONNAIRES; DATA COLLECTION; BEHAVIOR

Introduction: The evaluation of the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations in real conditions of use is indispensable and the correlation of these results with texture and sensory profile analyses is necessary because impacts directly in the continuity of cosmetic treatment.
Objective: The evaluation and correlation of the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing alfafa oligosaccharides, cassava polysaccharides and sunscreens.
Methods: It was evaluated the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of formulations through biophysical and imaging analysis techniques.
Results: The methods presented a good correlation, because formulation added with suncreens and active ingredients provided better spreadability and sensorial properties. The assessment of clinical efficacy was coherent with the sensory analysis once the "skin smoothness" parameter could be proven with the increase of hydration and improvement of skin microrelief.
Conclusions: The application and correlation of the used techniques enabled the definition and obtainment of a formulation with sensory acceptance and proven clinical efficacy in the improvement of texture and skin hydration. Thus, this study provides contribution in dermatological area, once an appropriate sensory favors the adhesion to the use of the product and the consequent treatment success.

Keywords: EFFICACY; COSMETICS; BIOPHYSICS; POLYSACCHARIDES; OLIGOSACCHARIDES

Introduction: Overexposure of the skin to the sunlight can cause photoaging and promote the emergence of malignant neoplasms. Sunscreens are used to prevent these alterations and may occasionally cause adverse reactions in children and adults.
Objective: To analyze the frequency and types of adverse reactions caused by sunscreens in adults and children.
Methods: Data analysis of in vivo, non-invasive clinical studies performed at a clinical research institute.
Results: Data from 2,263 adults and 523 children were evaluated, with 13.92% and 4.44%, respectively, presenting some type of reaction.
Conclusions: Sunscreens are effective in preventing photoaging and skin cancer. Cosmetic formulations containing sunscreens may cause adverse reactions with low prevalence.

Keywords: SUNSCREENING AGENTS; CONTROL AND SANITARY SUPERVISION OF COSMETICS; SUN PROTECTION FACTOR; COSMETICS

Some cosmetics manufacturers have sought to employ ecologically correct manufacturing processes and use ingredients sourced from biodiversity. The present paper introduces a scientific review for professionals who prescribe such products. The bibliographic survey was performed using databases and keyword searches. Cosmetic products can be conventional, natural or organic. Those classified as natural contain ingredients of natural origin, while a great part of the raw materials used in organic ones must be certified as organic. Labels indicate the type of ingredients used in natural and organic formulations, however there is no standardization, meaning that prescribers should have sound conceptual knowledge on the subject.

Keywords: Control and sanitary supervision of cosmetics; Cosmetics; Cosmetic industry; Cosmetic labeling

INTRODUCTION: Using sunscreen is a behavior that reduces the risk of skin cancer, among other diseases. The consumer's preferences for sunscreen types can assist dermatologists in recommending the best product to their patients.
OBJECTIVE: This study aims to indicate consumption and photoprotection habits, investigating answers to sun protection problems. Methods: An exploratory cross-sectional study, conducted through a questionnaire, with data collected directly from the participants.
RESULTS: Among the 300 interviewees, 249 declared to consume sunscreens. We found that most consumers misused sunscreens, and this problem may be related to sensory perception after applying sunscreen to the skin. Also, consumers highlighted the importance of sensory perception, whether visual, tactile, or olfactory, when purchasing this type of product.
CONCLUSIONS: This research reveals that the sensory characteristics, compliance, real effectiveness under normal conditions of use, and the market demand for sunscreens are interconnected. Thus, we suggest that dermatologists balance the importance of sensory aspects, cost, and sunscreens brand when recommending them to consumers.

Keywords: Behavior; Cosmetics; Dermatology; Questionnaires; Perception; Sunscreening agents; Sensation.

This review article reports the scientific data available on La Roche-Posay thermal water and clarifies its mechanisms of action, indications, and clinical benefits. Clinical studies and genomic evaluation of the skin microbiome have shown that La Roche-Posay thermal water improves the skin microbiome’s diversity and reduces the severity of skin lesions in inflammatory dermatoses, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Therefore, it justifies the use of selenium-rich water in topical formulations to prevent or treat skin diseases and as an adjunct to increase dermatological patients’ quality of life.

Keywords: Balneology; Cosmetics; Mineral Waters; Selenium; Skin; Thermal Water

In recent years, there has been an increasing trend toward the search for nature-friendly cosmetics without chemical or synthetic ingredients, thus boosting sales of products within this market niche. Currently, the term clean beauty refers to products that do not contain ingredients with unknown impacts on our bodies or that are potentially harmful to the environment. However, the definition of green beauty products, as well as vegan, natural, or organic products, is not regulated by ANVISA. Therefore, this study aimed to review these definitions to facilitate the medical understanding of the subject.

Keywords: Beauty; Cosmetics; Beauty products; Green chemistry Technology