Introduction: Organic acids are widely used in cosmeceutic-based skincare due to their exfoliation and cell renewal related effects. A star anise derivative known as shikimic acid is an example. Objectives: To evaluate the antioxidant activity of shikimic acid and the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic preparations containing 3% of this active principle. Methods: The antioxidant activity was assessed through an in vitro method. Formulations of gel, gel cream, and a 3% solution of the acid were sequentially dispensed and preliminarily subjected to stability and sensory analysis. The clinical study was performed through non-invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Results: The shikimic acid showed antioxidant potential. All formulations were found to be stable and the addition of shikimic acid improved the sensory analysis of the gel and gel cream. In the clinical assessment, the gel and the solution showed significant alterations in microrelief and in the parameters linked to skin exfoliation. However, the gel cream formulation did not show such an effect, suggesting the importance of the vehicle for the effectiveness of the cosmeceutics. Conclusions: Shikimic acid can be considered an active principle with good potential for application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at exfoliation and improvement of the skin's microrelief.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: Confocal laser reflectance microscopy has been regarded as a tool with extensive application in dermatology, emerging as a revolutionary factor in the diagnosis of skin disorders and the evaluation of cutaneous characteristics. This is due to the fact that it allows cellular level visualization with almost histological resolution of cellular and tissular features through a non-invasive method, in real time. Objective: To evaluate the morphological and structural characteristics of skin aging in the epidermis and papillary dermis using confocal laser reflectance microscopy. Methods: Forty female volunteers with II, III, and IV skin phototypes were selected and divided into two age groups: young skin (18-35 years old) and aged skin (40-65 years old). The evaluation of the cellular characteristics of the different cutaneous layers was performed using a confocal laser reflectance microscope Vivascope 1500. Results: Using the confocal microscopy analysis, it was possible to observe an irregular pigmentation pattern, irregularly distributed keratinocytes, flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction, presence of damaged collagen fibers, and solar elastosis in the aged skin. Conclusions: Confocal laser reflectance microscopy is a technique that is highly useful for assessing morphological and structural characteristics of cutaneous aging at the epidermis and papillary dermis levels.

Keywords: MICROSCOPY, CONFOCAL; SKIN AGING; EPIDERMIS; DERMATOLOGY