INTRODUCTION: The use of botanical extracts in dermatological treatments has received special attention in worldwide literature, especially for its antioxidant action. Different products containing Polypodium leucotomos and Pinus pinasters extracts are commercially available in industrialized presentations or compounding. However, in the second case, there is no standardization in the extraction process and there is a lack of data regarding the quantitative and qualitative content in the referred formulations that demonstrate its effectiveness and safety.
PURPOSES: to assess the different concentrations of actives in standardized and patented botanical extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), respectively, comparing them to products offered by compounding pharmacies.
METHODOLOGY: The products were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography, and pharmacologically active markers were identified in peaks by retention time.
RESULTS: the concentrations of identified actives varied in the different products analyzed, being undetectable in many of them. Only industrialized products with standardized and patented extracts showed all the expected markers.
CONCLUSION: consistency was observed in specific products containing the patented extracts of Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock^®) and Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol^®), demonstrating the importance of standardization in extraction processes and studies on the efficacy and safety profiles.

Keywords: Antioxidants; Plant extracts; Flavonoids

INTRODUCTION: Oxidative stress, characterized by an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and antioxidant defense, seems to be the main process that worsens skin aging, and the mitochondria is an important source of ROS. There is increasing evidence that oral administration of functional nutrients can protect the skin from oxidative damage.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the effectiveness of an oral supplement with collagen peptides and other nutrients in reducing the signs of photoaging.
METHODS: In vitro studies evaluated the antioxidant and antiglycant effects under UV light, as well as the synthesis of extracellular dermal matrix components; then, a clinical trial was developed with women between 35 and 60 years old, for 12 weeks. Hydration (corneometry) and skin firmness (cutometry) measurements were performed.
RESULTS: The supplement showed antioxidant and antiglycant properties under the stress generated by UV radiation, as well as the ability to induce synthesis of extracellular dermal matrix elements; There was an improvement in all clinical parameters of aging. Significant improvement in hydration and firmness and elasticity were also observed.
CONCLUSION: Collagen peptides and nutrients association demonstrated an effect in some mechanisms involved in the photoaging process, leading a clinical improvement.

Keywords: Collagen; Exposome; Oxidation; Skin Aging; Glycation End Products, Advanced; Dietary Supplements.