Introduction: Organic acids are widely used in cosmeceutic-based skincare due to their exfoliation and cell renewal related effects. A star anise derivative known as shikimic acid is an example. Objectives: To evaluate the antioxidant activity of shikimic acid and the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic preparations containing 3% of this active principle. Methods: The antioxidant activity was assessed through an in vitro method. Formulations of gel, gel cream, and a 3% solution of the acid were sequentially dispensed and preliminarily subjected to stability and sensory analysis. The clinical study was performed through non-invasive biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Results: The shikimic acid showed antioxidant potential. All formulations were found to be stable and the addition of shikimic acid improved the sensory analysis of the gel and gel cream. In the clinical assessment, the gel and the solution showed significant alterations in microrelief and in the parameters linked to skin exfoliation. However, the gel cream formulation did not show such an effect, suggesting the importance of the vehicle for the effectiveness of the cosmeceutics. Conclusions: Shikimic acid can be considered an active principle with good potential for application in dermocosmetic formulations aimed at exfoliation and improvement of the skin's microrelief.

Keywords: CHEMEXFOLIATION; ANTIOXIDANTS; COSMETICS; EFFICACY; SHIKIMIC ACID.

Introduction: The evaluation of the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations in real conditions of use is indispensable and the correlation of these results with texture and sensory profile analyses is necessary because impacts directly in the continuity of cosmetic treatment.
Objective: The evaluation and correlation of the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing alfafa oligosaccharides, cassava polysaccharides and sunscreens.
Methods: It was evaluated the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of formulations through biophysical and imaging analysis techniques.
Results: The methods presented a good correlation, because formulation added with suncreens and active ingredients provided better spreadability and sensorial properties. The assessment of clinical efficacy was coherent with the sensory analysis once the "skin smoothness" parameter could be proven with the increase of hydration and improvement of skin microrelief.
Conclusions: The application and correlation of the used techniques enabled the definition and obtainment of a formulation with sensory acceptance and proven clinical efficacy in the improvement of texture and skin hydration. Thus, this study provides contribution in dermatological area, once an appropriate sensory favors the adhesion to the use of the product and the consequent treatment success.

Keywords: EFFICACY; COSMETICS; BIOPHYSICS; POLYSACCHARIDES; OLIGOSACCHARIDES

Introduction: Photoaging and melasma are frequent dermatological complaints. Confocal reflectance microscopy (CRM) is a recent technique that can be used for diagnostic evaluation of these dermatoses.
Objectives: To evaluate the characteristics of the epidermis and dermis containing pigmentary alterations caused by photodamage and melasma with the assistance of CRM, and compare the findings linked to these changes with the perilesional region.
Methods: A pilot study was conducted with eight female individuals (aged 38 to 50 years, Fitzpatrick phototypes from II to IV) with clinical diagnoses of photodamage (n = 4) and melasma (n = 4) in the facial malar region. The perilesional and lesional regions were compared regarding the thickness of the stratum corneum and viable epidermis, the depth of the interpapillary crests, and the presence of hyper-refractive structures.
Results: The pigmentary alterations in the photodamaged skin revealed a morphological pattern — such as an increase in the depth of the interpapillary ridges in the lesion region — typical of solar lentigo. In the lesional region of volunteers bearing melasma, it was possible to observe the presence of dendritic cells in the epidermis and melanophages in the dermis. All volunteers had hyper-refractive keratinocytes in the lesional epidermis region.
Conclusions: Considering the number of patients evaluated, it was possible to characterize and compare cutaneous pigmentary alterations caused by photodamage to those cause by melasma.

Keywords: Aging; Microscopy, confocal; Diagnosis